What is the one thing your body craves after a long business trip overseas? It might be rich cheese or a juicy steak for some. But for me, the moment I land back in Tokyo, my brain is hijacked by a singular, powerful desire: the aroma of Dashi (soup stock) and Soy Sauce.
While the Japanese meal on the flight was decent, it was merely a symbol of home. My cells were demanding the real deal—steaming hot broth prepared by master artisans. As CityNomix, I hunt for culture globally, but in this moment, I return to being just a simple Japanese soba lover.
My feet naturally led me to Kanda Sudacho. My destination: the holy ground of Tokyo’s soba culture, Kanda Matsuya Main Store.
A Timeless Space in Kanda Sudacho
Despite being in the middle of Tokyo’s skyscraper jungle, the corner of Kanda Sudacho feels like a time capsule. This area, lined with wooden buildings that survived WWII, is not just a tourist spot; it is the living memory of the city.
At its heart sits the Kanda Matsuya Main Store, built in 1925 (Taisho era). Designated as a historic building by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government, its presence is dignified yet welcoming. Slide open the wooden door, and you are instantly wrapped in the lively atmosphere of old Edo.
On my previous visit, I enjoyed the ultimate combo of “Kamo Seiro” and “Nameko Soba.” (Read about that experience here: The Essence of Edo at Kanda Matsuya). This time, however, I had a specific mission: to awaken my jet-lagged body with two distinct dishes.
The Shock of Gold: Curry Nanban Soba
Taking a seat, I looked around. Even in the late afternoon, the place was packed. The rhythmic calls of the staff served as a pleasant soundtrack. I ordered without hesitation: Curry Nanban.
You might find spicy food everywhere in the world, but Japanese “Curry Nanban” is a unique cultural evolution. It is a harmonious fusion of spicy curry powder and rich, bonito-flake-based dashi broth. It’s a soup dish unlike any other.
The bowl arrived with an aroma that aggressively stimulated my appetite. I took a sip of the broth. This was it. This was what I needed.
The thick soup initially hits you with the spice of the curry. However, immediately after, a wave of profound dashi umami washes over the palate. Matsuya’s signature strong Kaeshi (soy sauce base) stands up to the curry, creating a perfect balance.
The ingredients are simple: chunky chicken and Japanese leeks (Negi). The chicken is savory, and the sweet, heated leeks add a wonderful accent. The soba noodles themselves, despite being in hot soup, retain their texture and carry the thick broth perfectly to your mouth. It’s a meal that melts away travel fatigue.
From Heat to Zen: The Exquisite “Tororo Soba”
After warming up with Curry Nanban, I was ready for the second act. I had heard rumors on social media that “Kanda Matsuya’s Tororo Soba is a masterpiece.” I had to try it.
Moving from the intense heat of curry to the refreshing cool of Tororo Soba (grated yam soba) is a culinary journey from dynamic motion to stillness.
The bowl that appeared was covered in a snow-white blanket of grated yam. The fine, foamy texture looked almost artistic. Hesitantly, I lifted the noodles through the white layer.
The texture was a surprise. The airy, fluffy tororo gently coated each noodle. The earthy scent of the yam mixed with the aroma of the buckwheat, providing an intense sense of refreshment. It was a world of serene umami, a stark contrast to the curry.
Adding a touch of fresh wasabi brought the dish to perfection. The sharp pungency tightened the mellow flavor of the yam, adding depth. Because Matsuya’s noodles have such a smooth throat-feel, the unity with the sticky tororo was flawless.
Guide to Enjoying Kanda Matsuya Main Store
For those planning to visit, here is a breakdown of key information based on my research and experience, covering the essential keywords for navigating this legendary shop.
Kanda Matsuya Menu
The menu is diverse. Beyond the “Curry Nanban” and “Tororo Soba,” the classic “Mori Soba” (cold plain noodles) is a must to taste the buckwheat itself. “Kamo Nanban” (warm duck soba) is another favorite. They also have a rich selection of side dishes like Yakitori and Kamaboko, reflecting the culture of drinking sake at soba shops.
Kanda Matsuya Celebrities
This shop has been loved by many cultural figures. Most notably, the famous writer and gourmet Shotaro Ikenami frequented Matsuya. His essays often depict it as the ideal place to enjoy soba. Even today, many chefs and celebrities visit privately, attesting to its enduring quality.
Kanda Matsuya History
Established in 1884 (Meiji era), the current building was constructed in 1925 after the Great Kanto Earthquake. It miraculously survived the WWII air raids. The two-story wooden structure preserves the architectural style of that time, making it a “living cultural property” rather than just a museum piece.
Kanda Matsuya Main Store Access
Access is convenient. It’s a 5-minute walk from JR Kanda Station (East Exit) and just 2 minutes from Awajicho Station (Marunouchi Line) or Ogawamachi Station (Shinjuku Line). It is also within walking distance from Akihabara. The area is dotted with other historic shops, making it a great walking course.
Kanda Matsuya Main Store Reservation
Generally, Kanda Matsuya does not accept reservations for regular seating. The rule is simple: come, line up, and share tables. This fairness is part of the charm of Edo commoner culture. Everyone queues up and shares the space, regardless of status.
Kanda Matsuya Queue
As a popular spot, expect a queue, especially on weekends and around New Year’s Eve. However, the turnover is surprisingly fast thanks to the efficient staff. Use the waiting time to admire the historic architecture. Visiting on weekdays between 3 PM and 4 PM is a good strategy to avoid long waits.
Kanda Matsuya Fire
Search results often associate “fire” with this area, but this usually refers to the nearby “Kanda Yabusoba,” which suffered a fire in 2013 (and has since been rebuilt). Kanda Matsuya has fortunately escaped such disasters and maintains its original wooden structure, with high awareness of fire prevention.
Kanda Matsuya Popular Menu
While first-timers should try the “Mori,” regulars often go for “Curry Nanban,” “Goma (Sesame) Soba,” or even the “Oyakodon” (Chicken and Egg Bowl). The golden routine for locals is to start with Sake and Yakitori, then finish with cold Soba.
Conclusion: A Place to Return To
Returning to Kanda Matsuya felt like coming home. The power of the Curry Nanban and the gentleness of the Tororo Soba did more than fill my stomach; they reconnected me with Japan. If you are looking for an authentic experience in Tokyo—one that feeds both the body and the soul—step through the noren curtains of Kanda Matsuya.
Official site:http://www.kanda-matsuya.jp/
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