Beyond the Bustle of Yurakucho: An Encounter with Authenticity
On Sunday, May 25, 2025, around 11:00 AM under a slightly overcast sky, I found myself heading to Hankyu Men’s Tokyo, a distinguished department store in Yurakucho, Tokyo. My mission was clear: a visit to the Nigel Cabourn floor. This wasn’t just any shopping trip; it was a day I had earmarked, thanks to a 15% discount offered by my Persona card. Yes, today was a special day dedicated to immersing myself in the world of Nigel Cabourn.
Allow me to share a little about the Nigel Cabourn brand. The designer, Nigel Cabourn himself, attended Northumbria University in the UK from 1967 to 1971 and, even before graduating, launched his own brand, CRICKET (later renamed Nigel Cabourn). He is a world-renowned collector of vintage clothing, with an astonishing personal archive said to exceed 4,000 pieces. It’s truly remarkable.
Drawing inspiration from this vast collection, he has created numerous masterpieces rooted in military and workwear. Iconic pieces like the “Mallory Jacket,” named after George Mallory, the mountaineer who aimed to conquer Everest, and the “Army Cargo Pants,” a fusion of vintage British Army designs with US Army M-43 and M-51 cargo pants, are testaments to his dedication and creativity. This philosophy is palpable even in the store’s signage: “Nigel Cabourn THE ARMY GYM”—words that seem to encapsulate the brand’s core spirit.
Hankyu Men’s Tokyo 7th Floor: Where History Breathes in a Serene Space
Upon arriving at Hankyu Men’s Tokyo, I made a beeline for the elevator to the 7th floor. As the doors opened, I stepped directly into the world of Nigel Cabourn. As always, the store exuded a profound, calm atmosphere, a space where time seems to stand still. The garments on display felt less like mere products and more like individual works of art, each with a story to tell.
I quickly approached a familiar staff member to pick up the items I had pre-ordered from the Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Having only seen samples at the pre-order event, the moment of inspecting the final products always fills me with anticipation. This is, in essence, the joy of a true Nigel Cabourn review.
Meeting My Pre-Ordered Treasures: The Soul in the Details
First up were the “Battle Dress Shorts.” I thought I had ordered them in denim, but the staff gently corrected me: “They’re green, sir.” Memory can be a fickle thing. I asked to see the denim version anyway, just to be sure, and indeed, green it was. I usually wear a size 34, but having heard that the staff often size up by one or even two, I decided to try a 36.
It felt a bit loose at first, but surprisingly, it created a better overall silhouette. “The wider leg opening also helps keep you cool in the summer,” the staff member advised. Their a_dvice, honed by years with the brand, is always spot-on and trustworthy. The shorts in size 36 were a go. Incidentally, the brand’s iconic “British Army Pants” and “Railman Denim Pants” are also renowned for their durable construction and timeless design—pieces I aspire to own someday.
Next were the “Nigel Cabourn x SUICOKE MOGI sandals.” Only one sample size was available at the pre-order event, so I compared sizes 8 and 9, opting for the smaller one. They’re set to be a reliable companion, adding a touch of personality to my footwear game.
Then came the “7.8oz Basic T-shirt (Pigment),” with its appealing, perfectly-dyed color. A true classic, this one. An infallible choice. The fit was perfect too.
And finally, the main event of the day: the “Capsleeve Wappen Jacket (Cotton Nylon Pin Ox).” The vintage-style patches on the sleeves and chest are incredibly cool. The catalog showed it with the collar folded down, but I prefer it popped. No issues here; it was ready to join my wardrobe. The more I examined the details of this jacket, the more I appreciated Nigel Cabourn‘s meticulous craftsmanship.
Unexpected Finds: Navigating a Forest of sartorial Desire
With the “ritual” of checking my pre-ordered items complete, it was time to leisurely browse the rest of the store. This is another significant pleasure of visiting Nigel Cabourn. Suddenly, a “Cotton Beanie” caught my eye. Despite having just bought one from COMME des GARÇONS, I found myself reaching for it. This one, however, was a linen blend, and the black version was incredibly soft. I tried the denim color too, which had a stiffer feel. A staff member mentioned they had bought one for themselves and stretched it a bit. This kind of candid exchange of information is part of what makes specialty stores so appealing.
Furthermore, a staff recommendation led me to the “British Officers Shirt (Type 2 Check).” Nigel Cabourn‘s pieces, true to their “contemporary vintage” ethos, often have a substantial, weighty feel. This shirt, however, was surprisingly lightweight. It had a nostalgic, familiar quality. “Doesn’t it remind you of those old Ralph Lauren shirts you’d find in vintage stores?” the staff member asked. He was absolutely right. That sealed the deal; I loved the pattern and decided to purchase it as well. For this Nigel Cabourn review, the shirt’s lightness and vintage appeal are definitely noteworthy.
The store also boasts other masterpieces like the “Hemp Canvas Pants,” as well as a fine selection of accessories including high-quality leather belts, atmospheric bags, and suspenders. Each item eloquently speaks the brand’s visual language.
Interestingly, the Hankyu Men’s Tokyo store also carries a selection of products from Filson, the American outdoor brand, as both are managed by the same company in Japan. Fans of Nigel Cabourn would likely appreciate Filson’s rugged yet refined items.
The Essence of Nigel Cabourn: A Legacy of Enduring Value
Laying out all my new acquisitions was quite a sight. The jacket, sandals, beanie, T-shirt, shorts, and shirt—each one a trusted companion ready for the many years ahead.
Nigel Cabourn clothing is, above all, incredibly durable and functional. And most importantly, it’s supremely comfortable. The comfort of their trousers, in particular, is exceptional; it’s no exaggeration to say that most of the trousers in my closet are from Cabourn. Aiming to create “the vintage of the future,” every detail is meticulously crafted. Moreover, each product embodies a story—the designer’s passion, historical context, and inspiration.
This is why the brand has such a loyal following and is known to command high prices in the resale market. You might be surprised by the price tags at first. However, when you factor in smart shopping opportunities like the Persona card discount and consider the resale value, I believe it offers excellent value.
Finally, and most importantly: Nigel Cabourn clothes mold to your body the more you wear them. Not only do they become more comfortable, but they also develop a rich patina, an expression akin to well-loved vintage pieces. It’s a sensation of “nurturing your clothes.” This, I believe, is the primary reason why they captivate so many and are highly valued in the secondary market.
I am grateful for another wonderful encounter with exceptional items and for the pleasant time spent with the staff. This is a place that always makes me want to return. My shopping excursion in Yurakucho has been etched in my memory as one of the best things to do in Tokyo. I eagerly await my next visit. When will that be, I wonder?
Official Website: https://cabourn.jp/en
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